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Garhi Khuda Bakhsh, where the Bhuttos are laid to rest

The Bhutto family’s mausoleum has become a symbol for supporters of the political dynasty.

Bhutto is still alive
A sprawling concrete courtyard outside the mausoleum, which was previously a muddy wasteland, was cemented after Benazir's death. It now serves as a venue for political rallies on the anniversaries of the birth and death of Benazir and her father. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
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By Faras Ghani and Hafsa Adil
Published On 21 Jun 201621 Jun 2016

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Garhi Khuda Bux, Pakistan – “Bhutto is still alive.”

“We salute our martyred princess.”

“You are dearly missed.”

These are some of the messages written on the large banners that drape over the towering walls of a mausoleum in the southern province of Sindh.

Garhi Khuda Bakhsh is the ancestral village of Pakistan’s Bhutto family, and the mausoleum – a mighty three-domed white marble structure – is the final resting place for members of that political dynasty.

The Bhutto family’s history has been a troubled one: a military coup, two mid-term dismissals of government, corruption allegations, an execution and assassinations.

Benazir Bhutto’s father, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, founded the Pakistan People’s Party and was elected its first chairman in 1967.

He became Pakistan’s fourth president in 1971 and its ninth prime minister in 1973. In April 1979, during the rule of military dictator Zia-ul-Haq, he was hanged.

Benazir’s first term in power began in 1988, following Zia-ul-Haq’s death in a plane crash, but was over within two years owing to corruption allegations. The same criticism ended her second three-year tenure in 1996.

Following an eight-year self-imposed exile, Benazir returned to Pakistan in 2007 to contest the following year’s national elections. More than 200,000 supporters reportedly gathered at Karachi’s airport to welcome her.

As her convoy passed through the city it was the target of a twin bomb attack that left 134 people dead. Benazir walked away unscathed.

But, two months later, another attack following an election rally in the northern city of Rawalpindi took her life.

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For the party’s die-hard followers – called jiyalas – who remain loyal to the family and pledge allegiance to the Bhutto progeny, the mausoleum has become a place to pay homage.

Bhutto is still alive
'I am from mohtarma's [madam's] own village,' said Muhammad Aslam proudly as he stands guard at the graves of Pakistan's ninth and 11th prime ministers. He is one of the 10 caretakers at the mausoleum and has been working here ever since the burial site underwent a major overhaul following Benazir's death. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
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Bhutto is still alive
Red rose petals cover Benazir's tomb. 'People spend most of their time at Benazir's grave,' Aslam said. 'This is the one that gets the most prayers, flowers, ghilaaf [Quranic-verse adorned sheets] and tears. The difference in quantity of flowers shows which of these graves is the most beloved.' [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
The mausoleum was built over Zulfiqar's grave on the instructions of Benazir during the 1990s. 'Ever since Benazir died, the number of visitors has increased drastically,' said Aslam. 'This place is full of life all year around.' [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
In addition to the tombs of Benazir and Zulfiqar, the mausoleum also houses the graves of other members of the Bhutto family. However, locals say that visitors are mostly concerned with the resting place of the two former prime ministers. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
While Benazir's resting place is next to her father's, her two brothers - Mir Murtaza and Shahnawaz - are buried together. In their short-lived political careers, the two brothers were unable to match Benazir's popularity and fame. Here, too, they are at a considerable distance from their sister. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
The courtyard has hosted several political rallies by Benazir's son Bilawal and his father, the former president Asif Ali Zardari. 'Benazir's children come here on her birth and death anniversaries and her husband hasn't been here in nearly two years,' said Aslam. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
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Bhutto is still alive
Razia and her family of seven braved a 12-hour journey from central Punjab and mid-summer temperature of 52C to visit the mausoleum. 'This is a very important place for us. We love Benazir a lot,' she said, adding that the former prime minister 'is' the country's leader. She vowed to support Bilawal's political ambitions, saying: 'Just as his mother was beloved for us, so is he.' [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
Twenty-one-year old Kamran sits by a shoe rack outside the main building. 'I come here at 6am and leave after 8pm,' he said. He doesn't charge anything to look after the shoes but he receives a small salary and doesn't refuse tips when they are offered. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
Saleem and his group of four friends from the town of Kashmore, about 170km away, made a brief stopover at the mausoleum on their way to Sehwan. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
Wajid Ali sells framed photographs of the Bhutto leaders. He has been running this business since Benazir died and has always managed to find people who want to go home with a piece of Bhutto memorabilia. 'Even today, I have had sale of 8,000 rupees [about $76]. The number of visitors goes into thousands on busy days,' he said. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
There is a bazaar comprising a few dozen food, drink and souvenir shops outside the mausoleum. A myriad of aromas mixed with the fragrance of rose petals waft through the winding lane leading up to the main entrance. Business owners say they do well on anniversary days but keep the shops running throughout the year anyway. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]
Bhutto is still alive
Doodh patti, the milky tea sold at roadside cafes, is a popular brew at any time of the day, regardless of the weather. Amir, who runs one of the several doodh patti cafes outside the mausoleum, has been setting up shop at sunrise for more than six years. 'People come here and stay overnight in the courtyard so I need to start early to serve them,' he said. [Faras Ghani/Al Jazeera]


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